Walking into the dining room at Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery, through the doors of the old Lowrey Fruit building (a nod to its family history), my eyes sweep beyond the restaurant to the minty green of young vineyards at the foot of a generous, shady patio.
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Read moreUnder the expanse of sky, my shoulders drop an inch in surrender to the sweet, easy bistro vibe. As I enter, Madeleine, the woman who runs the dining room, is waiting, as if for me, and gives me a hug of welcome. I am about to receive the Ravine winery experience.
It’s delightful, not only because the feast I’m about to enjoy sends all of my senses spinning, but because I feel like I’m at home. It reminds me of those Sunday lunches when all the cousins came over and my mom cooked for days, filling the house with smells that made me almost dizzy with longing for the meal.
Nestled in the town of St. David’s, a short drive away from boutique hotels like the beautiful 124 on Queen, this Niagara-on-the-Lake winery’s restaurant has an easy buzz at lunchtime. Kids play soccer in a nearby flat of grass with balls provided by Ravine, and adults enjoy those last sips of cappuccino pulled by someone who knows what espresso can taste like when coaxed properly. The afternoon melts away in blue skies and children playing in the grass.
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Executive chef John Vetere trained in Italy at a prestigious culinary school outside of Parma, Italy. He landed at the Thompson Hotel’s Scarpetta, then left with the chef to start the much applauded Yours Truly on Ossington Avenue in Toronto. In 2014, he moved to Niagara-on-the-Lake with his wife. Today, he carefully fills our plates with a mix of humble, pure and authentic flavours.
Owners Norma Jane and Blair Harber are the fifth generation to farm this land, and the ones with the vision and imagination to protect the land from development by turning it into a vineyard. They're supported by the family, including their son and sommelier Alex Harber, who makes some exquisite wine choices for each course.
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We start with a deliciously dry brut — the bubbles, according to our attentive server Rich, make some space in our tummies for the meal. I ask Rich to serve us a Ravine winery’s choice selection of glasses and food — and it was a good move on my part.
There’s something amazing about sitting back, looking over the simple perfection of vineyards and sky and just letting the meal happen. No one is in a hurry here. And that, according to Vetere, is by design. The idea of intentional dining is clearly something that he wants us to experience. Vetere spent seven months with the restaurant team developing a menu that pays homage to the bounty of the Niagara region.
John Vetere, executive chef at Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery
“We don’t rush. There’s a meticulous method to how we prepare our foods,” offers Vetere. “When you have three or four ingredients in a dish, you can’t hide behind anything; it’s got to be freaking delicious.”
After our bubbly, we’re served crispy cauliflower with a curry aoli and fresh sheep’s milk cheese. The combination of crispy and creamy takes this simple vegetable to a new level.
Dressed in a garlic chili sofritto and parmiggiano, grilled rapini makes me fall in love with the sometimes-bitter green all over again. The char on the vegetable, one of Vetere’s unique touches, makes it sweet and smoky all at once. Alex suggests a pinot grigio from the Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery collection that perfectly balances the smoke with a fragrant hint of green apple.
A parade of dishes land on our table: an adventurous lobster gnocchi; a trio of mushrooms bathed in brandy and cream, served with Ravine winery’s house-made grilled sourdough; and buttery smooth mashed potatoes folded with fresh cheese from Québec. A wild rice and quinoa herb side is anchored by a crispy duck confit kissed with brandy jus and dried cherries. It’s partnered with Ravine winery’s newer entry, a rich and easy to enjoy gamay.
A trio of desserts, including home made blueberry ice-cream swirls and sticky toffee pudding light up my happy button. And of course, the aforementioned espresso and steamed milk ends a beautiful afternoon.
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Read moreAs I float down the steps and into the first drops of rain, I bump into Blair Harber. He is more than happy to recount the story of the winery and its generations of family history.
Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery is minutes from Historic Old Town, Niagara-on-the-Lake and worth every minute of the chill ride into St. David’s.
