Stories of skillful chefs who left the fast-paced kitchens of Toronto and execs who quit their corporate careers all in favour of a slower, simpler life permeate Prince Edward County. It’s a region full of dream-chasers and out-of-the-box thinkers who wanted to do something different, and that creative, passionate energy fills the air.
Flanked by Lake Ontario and the Bay of Quinte, the sprawling island boasts an abundance of breathtaking scenery. The lush, green landscapes are dotted with a seemingly ever-growing number of vineyards, and accented by coastlines of soft sand beaches and soaring limestone cliffs that provide more dramatic views than you can shake your head at.
Affectionately nicknamed The County, the municipality is the amalgamation of several towns and villages, but Picton, Bloomfield and Wellington draw the majority of visitors with walkable stretches of restaurants, bars, shops and accommodations.
The community of Picton comes alive with the blossoming of summer, and the jewel in its crown is The Royal Hotel. The once derelict historic building was lovingly restored by general manager Sol Korngold, and his family, who own the hotel. Now, it’s the centrepiece of Picton, where you’ll find local, artisanal wares sold in the lobby; food made with produce from the hotel’s own farm; and staff who are as passionate about taking care of the guests as they are about their home in Prince Edward County.
Strolling the charming strip around The Royal Hotel, friendly faces beckon me into cute cafés and boutique stores, asking if I’m from Toronto and quickly offering their best recommendations to enjoy the area. While it’s easy to see every shop on Main Street in a day, there are more dining and drinking destinations than you can get to in a weekend. Add in the surrounding opportunities for cycling and hiking, along with the down-to-earth barnyard wineries that offer a completely different — but equally delicious — experience from Niagara, and Picton makes a compelling case for an annual summer pilgrimage.
Picton's best restaurants and bars
The Royal Hotel
A destination for locals and visitors alike, The Royal is much more than a place to lay your head. The hotel is gorgeous, with design flourishes nodding to the building’s historic past everywhere you look, and comfortable common areas like a cozy library, an outdoor terrace outfitted with couches and a pool deck lined with loungers and umbrellas. But it’s the warmth and care of the staff that fill the hotel with an irresistible energy and make it a truly desirable place to stay.
If you can’t spend the night, at least enjoy a meal here — the food program is supplied by the hotel’s nearby farm, and it shows in the freshness, seasonality and chef Albert Ponzo’s creativity. In the spring, creamy risotto is made herbal with stinging nettles, a crispy piece of fish is served on a medley of grains and vegetables, and the kale salad with cheddar and maple vinaigrette is the best salad I’ve ever had. It’s all paired with an elegant selection of local and international wines. For breakfast, fluffy pancakes come with blueberry compote, while poached eggs and roasted mushrooms are piled onto sourdough. It’s all so wonderfully delicious that I never want to leave.
Bocado
This beloved Picton gem is moving up in the world with a freshly renovated dining room in P.E.C. and a new location in Collingwood that just opened in partnership with Ink Entertainment. Luckily the plates are meant for sharing at this Spanish tapas spot, because once you start tasting the food, you’ll want to try everything. Start with briny anchovies on sourdough before diving into dishes like albacore tuna swimming in a spicy jalapeño mojo verde, and tender roasted cauliflower slathered in zesty sauces and crunchy almonds. If you’re hungry, the savoury seafood paella is a large pan brimming with organic salmon, shrimp and mussels. Start with craft cocktails as you warm up, then get into their impeccable list of Spanish wine.
The Russ & Co.
Dozens of mismatched picture frames hang against exposed brick and dark brown wood, while floral patterns decorate the curtains and the bar in this eclectic, antiquey drinking den. The only thing that feels modern are the innovative signature cocktails. Spirit-forward serves like Al’s Medicine Cabinet, a tropical take on the penicillin, and Electric Boogaloo, a pisco and mezcal milk punch made with Fruit Loop cereal milk, are delicious, well-balanced sippers that will have you getting friendly with the taxidermy animals that adorn the space — or with the bartender.
Beacon Bike + Brew
This inclusive café on Picton Main Street doubles as a bike repair shop to serve the cyclists who spend the warmer months on the region’s many routes — including the 46 km Millennium Trail. The menu ranges from baked goods and sweet treats to sandwiches and salads, served alongside coffee, espresso-based drinks and even some stronger options. Park kiddies in the communal play area, pass your bike to the mechanic and sit back and enjoy a glass of local wine while you watch the magic happen.
