Picture Prince Edward County, or "The County" as locals call it. Do rolling farmlands, beaches, small towns and vineyards come to mind? Today, vineyards are closely associated with Prince Edward County, but the wine industry here is still in its early stages. One of the pioneers of Prince Edward County's wineries, Closson Chase is known for its iconic big, purple barn. Its story and the people behind it are fascinating.
Producing 5,000 to 6,000 cases a year, Closson Chase continues to grow both in sales at the LCBO and in popularity, attracting thousands of visitors annually. With several million dollars invested, it’s now one of The County’s most respected wineries. But Closson Chase’s success can be traced back to a casual comment made 26 years ago.
In 1997, at a dinner party in Toronto, Seaton McLean, co-founder of Alliance Atlantis, was speaking with renowned Niagara winemaker Deborah Paskus, whom he had just met through his wife, actress Sonja Smits. McLean asked Paskus if she had ever dreamed of starting her own winery after building a solid reputation working with other Niagara-based wineries. Paskus revealed she had grown her own grapes on small parcels of land where she had worked in Niagara, but lacked the capital to move forward in such an ambitious manner. McLean responded, “Well, perhaps we should chat to see if I could help you with that.” To his surprise, six months later, Paskus called him with a 60-page business plan and an ideal property in mind.
That property was located in Prince Edward County, not Niagara, where McLean had expected a winemaking venture to take place. To add to his surprise, Paskus explained that the property — a 38-acre parcel with dilapidated buildings, including a pig barn — was priced at only $100,000. It had the right southern-facing slope, fertile soil and climate for growing quality grapes, with potential for expansion. The price was so reasonable that McLean and his wife decided to take the plunge and invest $50,000 each, securing the property the very next day. Michael MacMillan, McLean's long-time business partner, joined the venture, along with other key figures: lawyer Bill Fanjoy, financier Gene McBurney and documentary-maker Andy Thompson (who recently passed away after a long battle with cancer).
Looking back, McLean and Smits agree that they had no idea how much work or investment it would take to build a winery. “It was a very exciting time. And ignorance is bliss,” Smits says. “We had no idea how much effort, time, failure, success, or how invested I would become. I may not have done it if I’d known, but I’m glad I did.”
By 2015, after 17 years of building Closson Chase, Paskus retired. Keith Tyers, who had worked alongside her, was appointed winemaker, and he’s been at the helm of production ever since, earning numerous accolades for his work. Tyers is passionate about winemaking and takes pride in turning the vineyard’s produce into wines that reflect the unique conditions of each year. Today, the Closson Chase Chardonnay is particularly renowned, with Tyers working to refine the pinot gris and pinot noir varietals.
Keith acknowledges that it's difficult to compare Prince Edward County's wineries to Niagara’s industry. Many of the wineries in P.E.C. are private and don't have their bottles stocked on LCBO shelves. Prince Edward County wineries account for only about 1 per cent of the province's wine production, with Niagara contributing about 80 per cent, he explains.
Moray Tawse, one of the country's most respected vintners, notes, "Closson Chase was definitely one of the first wineries to put Prince Edward County on the map. I respect them and their love for the business."
Though Closson Chase is a success story, it’s still a small operation that is barely breaking even. But the owners are committed and patient.
In addition to the wine experience, Closson Chase added a restaurant, Bantam Farmhouse, in 2022. Owned by Rollande Robertson, it enhances the winery's offering with a range of delicious dishes, such as the East Coast Hoagie — featuring lobster, crab and shrimp — or confit duck leg with pinot noir blackberry gastrique. Visitors can now spend an entire afternoon enjoying wine and food in a picturesque setting.
In August, I had the pleasure of dining in MacMillan and his wife's restored barn on the winery property, an experience that highlighted the personal connections at the heart of Closson Chase. The dinner, prepared by MacMillan himself, was a summer highlight, accompanied by generous pours of Closson Chase wine.
The winery is easily recognized by its iconic purple barn, which was painted in 2002. Contrary to what you might think, the colour choice wasn’t influenced by the entertainment moguls involved in the business. It was their daughters who mixed various colours to create the purple hue that’s now synonymous with the winery.
The name Closson Chase refers to the intersection where the winery is located, named after the previous farming family and the intersection of Closson and Chase Roads. McLean jokes, “Thank God we weren’t at the next road over — Closson College Swamp Road doesn’t quite have the same ring to it.”
Closson Chase isn’t focused on rapid expansion, although they recently acquiesced to the ongoing requests to use their beautiful vineyard as a wedding and large-scale event property. You can be one of the first to have your wedding ceremony and reception at a dedicated, private area on the grounds, which includes a historic barn, tented space and those gorgeous, bucolic vineyard views.
Elsewhere, Closson Chase has the patience to let their wines — and their business — continue to grow steadily.
The restaurant officially opens for the season on May 13, 2025. Since it's expected to be a busy summer, make your reservation now and enjoy the best of spring and summer in the County.
