Grapevines can be fickle, and the weather in this limestone dominant region, like all acts of nature, can be unpredictable, so talented vintners have to be humble about their success from year to year. However, Megalomaniac Wines in the Niagara region’s relatively lesser-known Benchlands, might be the exception. The setting, the food and the pedigree of the wines on offer at this modern European inspired winery are well past agreeable.
There’s no question this much awarded winery has got personality and sass. Add to that a smart, modern Art Nouveau interior and the cheeky bowler hat logo and you’ll immediately see there’s a panache here that is unmistakable. Go for the remarkable wines, but don’t miss the chance to dine at Megalomaniac Wines.
The winery's expansive terraced dining area overlooks an abundance of hilly vineyards full of grapes. Sitting high above a verdant green landscape in the quiet early evening breezes is the perfect setting for a first course of yellow fin tuna tartare that is both delicate and powerful. The fish is tossed in tamari sauce and chili oil and served with a wasabi mayo and salty kettle chips. Along with Bubblehead Brut, a dry, crisp pour, the dish made it impossible for me to think of anything other than the joy of the present moment.
While chatting with Will, the manager of the dining room, I discover that the owner of the vineyard, John Howard, is a creative, open minded and innovative businessman with a passion for all things Niagara and all things France. He partnered with the owners of local restaurant Revalee two years ago to serve a dining experience that provides a fresh take on classic fare using ingredients that are field-to-table, locally sourced and European influenced. Even the Bubblehead Bread is the result of a partnership with the local Cobb’s bakery.
Don’t miss the burrata if it’s on offer — the fresh cheese from Ontario is drizzled with a truffled mushroom tartufata and honey that pairs willingly with the Narcissist Riesling. While I am usually not a fan of sweet wines, especially from the Niagara ‘of old,’ this sip will not disappoint if you like soft, dryer notes of peach and pear, and a surprising hint of lime.
Mains range in choice. I enjoy the black truffle orecchiette which is dressed with toasted garlic crumbs. The pasta is cooked perfectly, very fresh and layered with a depth of tastes. Ask for more freshly grated cheese to add to this heavenly dish. Their classic Saturday night peppercorn sirloin steak comes thick and warm along with a parsnip purée and roasted broccolini. The Thai red curry is a delicious primary dish for those who prefer a meat-free meal.
The To Be Frank Cabernet Franc, bottled in 2022, is a new entry and does not disappoint. Its cherry leaning fruitiness combined with earthy flavours are a light alternative to the deeper cab sauv.
We end the meal with a scrumptious triple layer chocolate cake made with buttercream and crème anglaise that holds its own along with the remaining slow sips of cabernet franc.
While their naming practices and marketing inspiration remain a mystery, one of Megalomaniac Wines’ finest offerings is their pinot noir. Known to be annoyingly difficult to grow due to the tight clusters of grapes which are prone to fungus, it is aptly named Sonofabitch Pinot Noir. While their cheeky names might make you snicker, Megalomaniac Wines' impressive offerings are nothing to scoff at.
