Bouncing up the mountainside, my teeth are chattering and my heart is pounding in my chest. Phone clutched in one hand, the other gripping the rail inside the ex-army truck, I realize that perhaps I have slightly underestimated this activity. When I saw “Liamiuiga Natural Farms” on my itinerary, I assumed my morning would be another sleepy farm tour, with a guide halfheartedly gesturing at crops I could barely name. I am about to learn just how wrong I am.
Half an hour later — and after a rather memorable ascent into the rainforest — I step off the truck at the entrance of Liamiuiga Natural Farms. Nestled 1,500 feet above sea level on Phillips Mountain, this is a living, breathing classroom of regenerative agriculture, and the only working coffee farm on the island.
The air is cool, heavy with the scent of damp earth and growing flora and fauna. As we wander beneath trees and carefully navigate around gnarled roots, it feels less like a tour and more like stepping onto a movie set.
Before our exploration really begins, we gather around a breakfast table groaning under the weight of bananas, plantains, yams, pumpkins and other gifts from the protected rainforest. It doesn’t get much more farm-to-table than this. We dig into eggs, rice, Johnny cakes, tropical fruits and, of course, coffee — freshly brewed from beans grown right here on the farm.
The coffee itself is a revelation. Cultivated with sustainable permaculture practices, the beans flourish in harmony with the surrounding ecosystem. The result is a smooth, earthy cup that tastes unmistakably of the farm it came from — the perfect expression of St. Kitts’ unique terroir. There’s even coffee ice cream for dessert; a sweet and creamy reminder that paradise comes in many forms.
After breakfast, we wander deeper into the farm. Coffee cherries twinkle in the sun, fragrant herbs like rosemary and sage brush against our arms, and every plant — from yams to pumpkins — seems to thrive effortlessly in this carefully balanced ecosystem. Along the way, we pass a rustic cabin where guests can truly unplug and immerse themselves in nature. It’s completely off-grid — WiFi is nonexistent — though solar panels provide just enough light to read by if you really want to.
By the time we climb back into the truck, I’m sweaty, sun-kissed and inspired. Liamiuiga Natural Farms isn’t just a farm; it’s an escape into nature, history and flavours. I’ve learned more about St Kitts in a few hours here than I ever could lounging by a pool. Liamiuiga Natural Farms is untamed, alive and utterly unforgettable.
